v1605 Now • 100%
Wireguard is good if you don't want easy access to notifications or location based automations. Otherwise you need to always make sure the VPN is on.
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Lots of good info here I'm not going to repeat, but I think if you're going to open home assistant to the public Internet, you should not use duckdns. It's better to get your own domain and set up a reverse proxy to use https. Or if it's too technical, subscribe to nabu casa and let them handle it for you.
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Looks similar to a Sony PVM-8045Q, so a nice portable crt.
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This argument would outlaw a USB flash drive, "Your Honor, this device can store the contents of this 30 old game, it needs to be outlawed to protect all intellectual property"
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Sounds like Scientology
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Alliexpress search is weird. It tends to focus on similar items you've viewed, so once you find a product you get better searches related to that product for a short while.
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Looks like you can find replacements on Alliexpress. https://www.aliexpress.us/item/3256805584512736.html
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And why the Franklin Ace 1200 lost in court to Apple, copied Roms.
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Full reverse engineering, using any plans or leaks from Sony would put them in legal trouble.
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So for this job I used:
- Head Visor for Magnification
- Quick 957DW+ Hot Air Station
- Hakko FX-888D Soldering Iron
- Solder and Flux
You can definitely do this type of work with a cheaper iron like a Pinecil or KSGER T12 of alliexpress.
Some background, I originally removed the chips from the board on the left for a Pocket Color Build. It's original fault was no power, which turned out to be a dirty power switch and corroded battery contacts. The new board had signs of corrosion under the solder mask and previous work (bent ram pins and bridges on the cpu). I decided to move the chips on the other instead of trying to restore the traces. Soldering all went well, until my hand slipped while testing if the connections were solid. One of the pins (bottom left) is pretty bent and the pad on the end was partially lifted. I was able to heat all those back up and confirm no bridges and the pads are connected. Booted up a quick game to test a screen, sounds and all the buttons. Everything is working. Moral of the story, be careful and don't put too much pressure on those pins.
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Hot air station. Put down some tacky flux and kept it moving around the chips at about 380c.
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Thanks! I've built a MGBC, a DMGC, a Funny playing GBA so I have some experience (though very much still an amateur).
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Thanks! Getting them off was probably harder than soldering them on. It took quite a bit of heat to melt the existing solder. After that, line up the pins and tac it in place and use drag soldering with plenty of flux.
The SGB CPU is compatible with the DMG. By swapping the CPU, your Gameboy will skip the falling Nintendo animation. This decreases the boot speed.
nationaltoday.com
What's everyone playing? I'm enjoying Mr. Driller for the GBC.
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Finally got a chance to try the new vacuum florescent filter. It looks cool but I bit to sharp for me and I feel like my brain knows where the scanlines are supposed to be. I prefer the GPB Light filter over this but its awesome to see and I bet there are some games that would look great.
www.analogue.co
Looks like a bunch of bug fixes and some new display modes. No DAC
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Thanks, those are cool but I'm just a sucker for a good landscape.
lemmy.world
Thought I would show this off here too.
This is an open source project that adds a GBC processor and screen into a DMG shell. Have to say, I really enjoy the weight. The github can be found [here](https://github.com/MouseBiteLabs/Game-Boy-DMG-Color).
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I think the laws need to clarify the difference between just hosting vs suggesting content. Tik Tok should be responsible since it suggested the dangerous video, unlike if it was just hosted on an AWS server.
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Thanks! Besides some other posts about this adapter on and some comments here and there on Reddit, I just post on Lemmy now.
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I just always think of this clip https://youtu.be/R23GHBnDHYw?si=_RxuGSXlH7UzW7zB
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Not sure, no mention about it on his discord. Though with the new SD2SP2 V2.0 design the m.2 is less important (supposedly it has similar performance).
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Poltergeist
This was my first attempt doing a trace repair on a HDMI port. Seems like everything seems to be working after replacing those caps as well. Played through the tutorial of gears 5 with no issues. What I've tested: 1. Playing downloaded game 2. Playing a Blu-ray 3. Playing on a 4k TV and 1440 monitor. This one the auto detect preferred 120hz 1080p but manually selecting resolution works great. What I've learned: 1. Wired all the pads before soldering the port. I attached the front wires after the port was soldered. Should have just done them all. 2. A cheap grinding pen is so much easier to use than a knife to expose the traces. 3. 0201 are very hard to work with.
Picked up this Series X to do a trace repair for the hdmi, turns out 2 caps were ripped off the board as well. The one was still partially connected and easy to bodge. The second circled is missing. I'm curious if anyone knows the replacement value. The similar caps in the area all read between 18.6 to 19.6 uf when out of circuit, so it could be a few values (though no guarantee this cap wasn't unique and completely different).
The 369 in 1 can be reflashed with the Nightrap rom. Funny thing too, the bootleg shell feels higher quality.
Just another option for people looking to buy a extender (though really consider investing learning how to build one yourself). InsideGadgets is very well known in the community for the GBxCart Flasher and their flash carts so no risks on quality in my opinion. Disclaimer: I am the developer of the [project](https://github.com/v1605/open-source-cart-extender) and have not been compensated in any way from InsideGadgets.
Limited Run Games did preorders last April fools 2023. No actual gameplay, just the movies in quality similar to the GBA video carts. Rom is 256mb. It doesn't load in the Mister, OpenFPGA, or mGBA.
. 3 MBC1, 1 MBC3, and 1 MBC30
To add context, I'm the developer of this PCB and in no way affiliated/compensated by the seller. Selling is permitted by the license so that's all cool. I do think you're better off learning basic soldering if you really care about original carts and doing fully diy, but there is now an option for buying.
I happen to have a board from my FunnyPlaying build so I figured I'd give it a shot. Used enamel wire to make the button contacts and got 3.3v from the cart slot. I also removed the caps as to not power any circuits that didn't need (CPU and RAM were donors to the other board). Power is provided via AA batteries.
Still very much a work in progress but it works reasonably well (about 8ms of lag). I want to ultimately create an easier to install PCB rather than the perfboard I used.
Bought this little kit for a few dollars on aliexpress awhile ago figuring it was an interesting project. I would not recommend it and I've already revered back to stock. 1. It makes the cartridge bulge. 2. The long term reliability is questionable (my chip seemed like a rebadge). 3. It will not work correctly on the analogue pocket (and possibly the FunnyPlaying FPGA GBC). Also I wouldn't use clips like this for the battery when you can use the HDR retainer. This was done years ago and I don't have any more of those on hand to replace it.
github.com
An update to my previous [post](https://lemmy.world/post/13033107). I was able to improive the average lag by disabling the serial monitor, passing a reference of the controller to the polling logic (eliminating the need to loop over the current state and previous state to determine if buttons should be pressed), and adding a 1ms delay between loops (should have realized that the board need some down time between calls). I've added the code since I think 8ms is a perfectly good lag result for a diy project.
Took a badly marginal gba pcb and transplanted the CPU and RAM into this new motherboard. The soldering was a nice challenge but I had an issue with the cart slot. A pin was bent, so had to fix that before games would boot. Very happy with the result. I've uploaded a picture of the back of the shell as well. https://imgur.com/a/opXFA5B Also in person, the plastic is not cloudy at all. The motherboard is here https://funnyplaying.com/products/gba-custom-upgraded-motherboard-replacement?variant=40990162059325
cross-posted from: https://lemmy.world/post/13199828 > Printed using hatchbox wood pla. I had a few issues with standoffs but a little glue fix those right up. I'm very happy with the way it turned out. Just waiting on the release of flippy drive to call it complete. > > Links to all the models I used: > > https://www.thingiverse.com/tessa-wolf/designs > https://www.printables.com/model/469283-gamecube-jewel > https://www.printables.com/model/117561-gamecube-power-button > https://www.printables.com/model/280005-gamecube-reset-button > https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2644517
Printed using hatchbox wood pla. I had a few issues with standoffs but a little glue fix those right up. I'm very happy with the way it turned out. Just waiting on the release of flippy drive to call it complete. Links to all the models I used: https://www.thingiverse.com/tessa-wolf/designs https://www.printables.com/model/469283-gamecube-jewel https://www.printables.com/model/117561-gamecube-power-button https://www.printables.com/model/280005-gamecube-reset-button https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2644517